Wonderful experience! They put the mulch exactly where we wanted. This mulch spread very easily and didn’t have the usual “mulch smell.” We will definitely use again!
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One cubic yard covers about 54 square feet at a 6 inch depth, and most fill jobs run 6 to 12 inches depending on how much grade you're making up. For a typical low spot or backfill area, measure the length and width in feet, multiply for square footage, then match it against that 54 square foot figure to land on a cubic yard count. Order in cubic yards and round up rather than short yourself mid project.
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We hand-pick and partner with the best yards in your region, keep only the ones our buyers rate well, and back each load with our guarantee.
If your fill dirt isn't the quantity or quality you ordered, we'll make it right.
Wonderful experience! They put the mulch exactly where we wanted. This mulch spread very easily and didn’t have the usual “mulch smell.” We will definitely use again!
One cubic yard covers about 54 square feet at a 6 inch depth, and most fill jobs run 6 to 12 inches depending on how much grade you're making up. For a typical low spot or backfill area, measure the length and width in feet, multiply for square footage, then match it against that 54 square foot figure to land on a cubic yard count. Order in cubic yards and round up rather than short yourself mid project.
Thanks! We received your request.
Something went wrong. Please try again.
Getting started is easy — just follow these simple steps
Adjust the quantity to match your project. One cubic yard covers about 100 to 160 square feet at a 2 to 3 inch depth.
Select a delivery date you'd like for the product to be dropped off at your home
Sit back, wait, and let us work our magic to make sure the highest quality product is delivered to your driveway.
Wonderful experience! They put the mulch exactly where we wanted. This mulch spread very easily and didn’t have the usual “mulch smell.” We will de...
Wonderful experience! They put the mulch exactly where we wanted. This mulch spread very easily and didn’t have the usual “mulch smell.” We will definitely use again!
Placing an order online was so easy. Delivery was on time. When the driver realized we had a newly poured driveway they erred on the side of cautio...
Placing an order online was so easy. Delivery was on time. When the driver realized we had a newly poured driveway they erred on the side of caution and opted not ti drive in it. The company even sent me a message explaining that call. Would recommend!
Great service. We ordered topsoil from Mulch Mound and the best experience. Thank you so much!
Most fill jobs around here finish with a layer of topsoil once the fill is compacted, since fill dirt alone won't support grass or plantings. If you're grading toward a lawn, screened topsoil on top gives roots something to work with, and mulch or stone can follow once beds are shaped. Compaction equipment, even a hand tamper for smaller areas, is worth having on site before the load arrives.
Place fill dirt in lifts of 6 to 8 inches and compact each one before adding the next, rather than dumping it all at once and grading over the top. On Rochester's silt loam, uncompacted fill traps water and settles unevenly over a season or two, which shows up as dips near foundations and pool decks. A plate compactor for larger areas or a hand tamper for small fixes makes a real difference in how long the grade holds.
A common mistake is treating fill dirt as a growing medium and seeding or sodding right on top of it. It's subsoil, so it lacks the organic content and structure that grass or plants need, and anything planted directly in it tends to struggle or wash out. Always cap finished, compacted fill with several inches of topsoil before planting anything, even a simple lawn patch.
If you're filling a large area, it often makes sense to order fill dirt for the bulk of the depth and finish only the top few inches with topsoil, rather than paying for topsoil all the way down. This keeps the material cost matched to the job, since fill dirt is doing structural work that topsoil isn't suited for anyway. Pair the order with a topsoil delivery once your fill has settled and been compacted.
Rochester sits on silt loam, which holds water and settles unevenly if it's disturbed and not compacted back down. That matters when you're filling around a new pool or foundation, because loose fill over silt loam will keep sinking through freeze thaw cycles unless it's built up in lifts. With frost reaching down before the ground firms up again around mid October, anything backfilled late in the season needs real compaction, not just a dump and grade. This fill is subsoil, not topsoil, so it's meant to build structure below grade, then get capped once you're ready to plant.
Clean fill is screened subsoil free of debris, roots, and contaminants. It is made for volume and grade, and it compacts predictably, which is exactly what you want under slabs, in trenches, and behind walls.
Fill dirt builds the shape of the ground, topsoil grows things on top of it. Bring the grade up with fill, then cap it with 4 to 6 inches of topsoil anywhere grass or plants are going in.
Place fill in layers of 4 to 6 inches and compact each one before adding the next. Dumping the full depth at once leaves voids that settle later, and settling is the one problem fill is supposed to solve.
