Placing an order online was so easy. Delivery was on time. When the driver realized we had a newly poured driveway they erred on the side of caution and opted not ti drive in it. The company even sent me a message explaining that call. Would recommend!
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One cubic yard of fill dirt covers about 54 square feet at a 6 inch depth, and most structural fill jobs run 6 to 12 inches deep depending on how much you're raising the grade. Measure the length and width of the area you're filling, decide your target depth, and order in cubic yards accordingly. For deeper fills, plan on building it up in lifts rather than one thick pour.
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We hand-pick and partner with the best yards in your region, keep only the ones our buyers rate well, and back each load with our guarantee.
If your fill dirt isn't the quantity or quality you ordered, we'll make it right.
Placing an order online was so easy. Delivery was on time. When the driver realized we had a newly poured driveway they erred on the side of caution and opted not ti drive in it. The company even sent me a message explaining that call. Would recommend!
One cubic yard of fill dirt covers about 54 square feet at a 6 inch depth, and most structural fill jobs run 6 to 12 inches deep depending on how much you're raising the grade. Measure the length and width of the area you're filling, decide your target depth, and order in cubic yards accordingly. For deeper fills, plan on building it up in lifts rather than one thick pour.
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Getting started is easy — just follow these simple steps
Adjust the quantity to match your project. One cubic yard covers about 100 to 160 square feet at a 2 to 3 inch depth.
Select a delivery date you'd like for the product to be dropped off at your home
Sit back, wait, and let us work our magic to make sure the highest quality product is delivered to your driveway.
Placing an order online was so easy. Delivery was on time. When the driver realized we had a newly poured driveway they erred on the side of cautio...
Placing an order online was so easy. Delivery was on time. When the driver realized we had a newly poured driveway they erred on the side of caution and opted not ti drive in it. The company even sent me a message explaining that call. Would recommend!
Great service. We ordered topsoil from Mulch Mound and the best experience. Thank you so much!
One of the easiest customer service experiences I've had in a long time! Mulch Mound made it so simple. After putting it off for a while, I looked ...
One of the easiest customer service experiences I've had in a long time! Mulch Mound made it so simple. After putting it off for a while, I looked at the weather and knew I needed to get to mulching ASAP before the rain came if I didn't want to wait another week. I put my order in for the next day online and they came right at 9 AM. The employee who dropped off the mulch did a great job, putting it right on the tarp I laid out, she even made sure none of it got on the yard and double checked the truck bed to make sure it all came out. The mulch was exactly what I needed and arrived right on time.
Most fill jobs finish with a cap of topsoil once the grade is where you want it, since fill dirt itself isn't meant to grow anything. If the finished area will see grass or plants, order topsoil for the top few inches. Some customers also grab a compactor rental or plate tamper locally to get each lift firm before adding the next.
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Salt Lake's clay subsoil doesn't forgive shortcuts. If you dump fill dirt in one thick layer and skip compaction, expect the ground to keep sinking for two or three years as it settles under its own weight and seasonal moisture swings. Place it in 6 to 8 inch lifts, compact each one with a plate tamper or hand tamper before adding the next, and you'll get a stable grade that holds through the freeze-thaw cycle instead of one that dips every spring.
A common mistake is treating fill dirt like topsoil and expecting grass to grow in it. Fill dirt is subsoil, screened of rocks and debris, but it's structural material, not a growing medium. Once your fill is compacted to grade, cap it with 4 to 6 inches of actual topsoil before seeding or sodding. Skipping that step means thin, patchy grass no matter how much fertilizer you throw at it.
If you're backfilling around a foundation or pool, order fill dirt for the bulk of the depth and save topsoil for just the surface layer where planting happens. This keeps the job cost efficient since fill dirt does the structural work cheaper than topsoil would, and you're not paying for growing-medium quality in a spot that's getting buried three feet down anyway.
Salt Lake City sits on heavy clay that already holds water and shifts with the freeze-thaw cycle between October and April. When you're backfilling a foundation or raising a low corner of the yard, loose fill on top of that clay will settle unevenly for years if it's not compacted in lifts. Most projects here are pool backfills, foundation grading near the older homes downtown, or building up low areas before laying topsoil for lawn. Because the growing season is short, from late April to mid October, timing your fill work before frost sets in makes the compaction easier and the follow-up topsoil work go smoother.
Clean fill is screened subsoil free of debris, roots, and contaminants. It is made for volume and grade, and it compacts predictably, which is exactly what you want under slabs, in trenches, and behind walls.
Fill dirt builds the shape of the ground, topsoil grows things on top of it. Bring the grade up with fill, then cap it with 4 to 6 inches of topsoil anywhere grass or plants are going in.
Place fill in layers of 4 to 6 inches and compact each one before adding the next. Dumping the full depth at once leaves voids that settle later, and settling is the one problem fill is supposed to solve.
