About this soil

Screened topsoil with a fine, even texture. Ideal for new lawns, sod prep, and raised garden beds.

Ordered Dirt. Received Dirt. Would Buy Again.

Raised beds usually need 10 to 12 inches of garden mix, new planting beds need 6 to 8 inches of amended soil over loosened clay, and lawn topdressing needs just a quarter to a half inch. One cubic yard covers about 100 square feet at 3 inches deep.
Use our free soil calculator

A yard is approximately 27 cubic feet. As a general guideline, one yard of material can cover an area of about 100-160 square feet at a 2-3 inch depth.

Centennial Soil Delivery

Centennial Soil Delivery

4.7
137 reviews
Regular price $55.00 per Yard
Regular price Sale price $55.00
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About this soil

Screened topsoil with a fine, even texture. Ideal for new lawns, sod prep, and raised garden beds.

Ordered Dirt. Received Dirt. Would Buy Again.

Raised beds usually need 10 to 12 inches of garden mix, new planting beds need 6 to 8 inches of amended soil over loosened clay, and lawn topdressing needs just a quarter to a half inch. One cubic yard covers about 100 square feet at 3 inches deep.
Use our free soil calculator

A yard is approximately 27 cubic feet. As a general guideline, one yard of material can cover an area of about 100-160 square feet at a 2-3 inch depth.

View full details

How It Works

Getting started is easy — just follow these simple steps

1

Choose your soil

Make sure you adjust the quantity to your home's needs. You can use our calculator to estimate how much you'll need.

2

Select your delivery date

Select a delivery date you'd like for the product to be dropped off at your home

3

Sit back and wait

Sit back, wait, and let us work our magic to make sure the highest quality product is delivered to your driveway.

What Centennial Customers Like About Our Soil

4.7
out of 5 based on 137 reviews
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Need Help Calculating How Much Soil You Need?

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Measure length and width in feet, then multiply by your fill depth in feet, dividing inches by 12. Take that cubic footage and divide by 27 for cubic yards. Remember that Centennial clay subgrade does not compress much, so what you order is close to what you get, though garden mix and compost will settle noticeably after the first heavy watering.

Complete Your Outdoor Soil Project

Add compost to blend into your existing clay, plus a few yards of mulch to cap the finished beds and hold moisture through Centennial's dry summer. Edging and a load of squeegee for pathways round out most yard renovations.

Frequently Asked Questions

Click a question to see the answer

Answer

What is the difference between topsoil and garden mix for Centennial beds?

Screened topsoil is a general purpose base for leveling, filling, and building up grade over clay. Garden mix blends topsoil with compost and works far better for vegetable beds and perennials, because our native Centennial clay is very low in organic matter. For raised beds, go with garden mix. For a low spot beside the patio, plain topsoil is more economical.

Answer

How do I improve the clay soil already in my Centennial yard?

Till 3 to 4 inches of compost into the top 8 to 10 inches of existing clay rather than replacing it entirely. Layering pure topsoil on top of untouched clay creates a drainage barrier where water perches. Blending the two builds a transition zone that roots can move through, and repeating a lighter amendment each spring keeps improving structure year after year.

Answer

How much soil do I need for a 4 by 8 raised bed?

A 4 by 8 bed filled 12 inches deep takes about 1.2 cubic yards. Most Centennial gardeners build 10 to 12 inches deep so tomato and pepper roots can escape the clay below. Order slightly extra, because garden mix settles 10 to 15 percent after the first few deep waterings.

Answer

Is Centennial soil alkaline, and does your topsoil fix that?

Yes, Front Range soils typically run alkaline with pH in the high 7s, which locks up iron and causes the yellowing you see on maples and roses around town. Our topsoil and compost blends bring in organic matter that buffers pH over time. For fast results on chlorotic plants, pair amended soil with a chelated iron application in spring.

Answer

When can I start working soil in the spring here?

Wait until the ground has thawed and dried enough that a squeezed handful crumbles instead of forming a mud ball, usually early to mid April in Centennial. Working wet clay destroys its structure and creates rock hard clods that last all season. Most planting waits until after the May 5 average last frost anyway, so there is no rush.

Answer

Will new topsoil help with the drainage problems in my backyard?

It helps, but grade matters more. Centennial's clay drains slowly, so simply piling soil on a low spot can make ponding worse if water has nowhere to go. Establish a positive slope away from the foundation at roughly a quarter inch per foot, then use amended soil to build that grade. For persistent wet areas, add a swale or drain line beneath the fill.

Answer

How much soil do I need to level and overseed my lawn?

For a light topdressing over existing bluegrass, plan on a quarter to a half inch, which is about 0.8 to 1.5 cubic yards per 1,000 square feet. Do this in late April or early September in Centennial, when temperatures favor seed germination. Use a fine screened blend so you do not smother the crowns of the existing grass.

Mulch Mound Pro Tip

Break up the clay before the soil arrives. If you dump 8 inches of fresh topsoil onto compacted, glazed clay, water perches at the boundary and roots stop cold at the seam. Run a tiller or a garden fork through the top few inches of the existing grade first, then blend the new soil into it. This one step is the difference between a bed that thrives and one that drowns after every Centennial thunderstorm.

Mulch Mound Pro Tip

Order soil in fall as well as spring. Working compost into Centennial beds in late September or early October, ahead of the October 5 first frost, lets winter freeze thaw cycles do the mixing for you. By April the clay is noticeably more friable and easier to plant. Fall delivery schedules are also wide open compared to the May rush, so you get your pick of dates.

Mulch Mound Pro Tip

Do not skip a soil test just because you brought in new material. Arapahoe County extension offers inexpensive testing, and knowing your phosphorus, salt, and pH numbers keeps you from over amending. Centennial soils are often already high in phosphorus, so dumping general purpose fertilizer wastes money and can run off. Test once, amend precisely, and your new topsoil performs far better for far less.

The Unique Landscape of Centennial

Almost every lot in Centennial was graded on heavy Front Range clay, and in newer subdivisions the good topsoil was often scraped off during construction and never fully replaced. What is left is dense, alkaline, low in organic matter, and slow to drain, which is why new sod yellows and vegetable beds underperform their first few seasons. Bringing in quality screened topsoil and compost gives roots a workable medium that actually holds the 17 inches of moisture we get each year instead of shedding it. At 5,837 feet with a short window between the May 5 last frost and the October 5 first frost, Zone 6a plants do not have time to fight bad soil and still produce. Amended soil also warms faster in spring, which buys Centennial gardeners precious extra growing days. Whether you are leveling a lawn, filling raised beds, or building new planting areas, the soil you start with sets the ceiling for everything above it.