
How It Works
Getting started is easy — just follow these simple steps
Choose your quantity
Adjust the quantity to match your project. One cubic yard covers about 100 to 160 square feet at a 2 to 3 inch depth.
Select your delivery date
Select a delivery date you'd like for the product to be dropped off at your home
Sit back and wait
Sit back, wait, and let us work our magic to make sure the highest quality product is delivered to your driveway.
First time going with this company for mulch and it was an efficient process from start to finish. Website was easy—I told them exactly where I wan...
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First time going with this company for mulch and it was an efficient process from start to finish. Website was easy—I told them exactly where I wanted the mulch put on my driveway, and it was delivered perfectly when I got home from work the next day. Best deal around when I compared it to competitors and I will definitely be becoming back.
Ordered Dirt. Received Dirt. Would Buy Again.
Complete Your Outdoor Project
Fill dirt handles the structural work, but if anything above it needs to grow grass or landscaping, cap it with a few inches of topsoil suited to Fishers silt loam. For pool or foundation backfill, some contractors layer in gravel near drainage points before bringing the fill up. Mulch on top of the topsoil finishes the job once grading is done.
Fill dirt is not a growing medium, it is structural, so treat it like concrete you are pouring in stages. Place it in 6 to 8 inch lifts and compact each one with a plate compactor or hand tamper before adding the next layer. Skip this on Fishers silt loam and you will watch the ground sink unevenly for two or three years as it settles on its own timeline, especially after freeze thaw cycles each winter.
The most common mistake we see on backfill jobs around Fishers is dumping fill against a foundation wall in one thick lift and calling it done. That traps water against the wall in silt loam soil that already drains slowly, and settling pulls the grade away from the house over time. Slope the final grade away from any structure and compact in stages, even if it means more time on site.
If you are only capping a small low spot, buying fill and topsoil separately usually costs less than one blended product, since you are not paying screening costs on material that just needs mass underneath. Save the finer, more expensive topsoil for the top few inches where roots actually live, and let the cheaper subsoil do the heavy lifting below it.
Grading and Filling in Fishers
Fishers sits on silt loam, which holds water and settles unevenly if you just dump loose fill and walk away. That matters on the low ground near Geist Reservoir and in newer subdivisions built on graded lots where drainage was an afterthought. With frost pushing down through October and up into late April, unstable fill will heave and resettle over the freeze thaw cycle if it is not compacted right the first time. This is structural material for raising and leveling ground, not something you plant into.
What Clean Fill Is
Clean fill is screened subsoil free of debris, roots, and contaminants. It is made for volume and grade, and it compacts predictably, which is exactly what you want under slabs, in trenches, and behind walls.
Fill Dirt vs Topsoil
Fill dirt builds the shape of the ground, topsoil grows things on top of it. Bring the grade up with fill, then cap it with 4 to 6 inches of topsoil anywhere grass or plants are going in.
Compact in Lifts
Place fill in layers of 4 to 6 inches and compact each one before adding the next. Dumping the full depth at once leaves voids that settle later, and settling is the one problem fill is supposed to solve.