Ordered Dirt. Received Dirt. Would Buy Again.

How It Works
Getting started is easy — just follow these simple steps
Choose your quantity
Adjust the quantity to match your project. One cubic yard covers about 100 to 160 square feet at a 2 to 3 inch depth.
Select your delivery date
Select a delivery date you'd like for the product to be dropped off at your home
Sit back and wait
Sit back, wait, and let us work our magic to make sure the highest quality product is delivered to your driveway.
Wonderful experience! They put the mulch exactly where we wanted. This mulch spread very easily and didn’t have the usual “mulch smell.” We will de...
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Wonderful experience! They put the mulch exactly where we wanted. This mulch spread very easily and didn’t have the usual “mulch smell.” We will definitely use again!
Placing an order online was so easy. Delivery was on time. When the driver realized we had a newly poured driveway they erred on the side of cautio...
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Placing an order online was so easy. Delivery was on time. When the driver realized we had a newly poured driveway they erred on the side of caution and opted not ti drive in it. The company even sent me a message explaining that call. Would recommend!
Complete Your Outdoor Project
Fill dirt does the heavy lifting of raising grade, but it's not a growing medium, so most projects finish with a few inches of topsoil capped over it wherever grass, beds, or gardens are going in. If drainage is a concern in the clay-heavy ground around here, a gravel base beneath the fill in low spots can help water move instead of pooling against a foundation.
Place fill dirt in lifts of 6 to 8 inches and compact each one before adding the next. Skipping this step is the single biggest reason people call us back a year later asking why their yard is sinking. In Montrose's clay soil, uncompacted fill traps water and settles unevenly, especially after the spring thaw. A hand tamper works for small areas, but a rented plate compactor is worth it for anything larger than a patio-sized fix.
Don't cap fill dirt with topsoil until you're done compacting, and don't seed or plant into it directly, it's subsoil, not a growing medium. If you're building up a bed for spring planting, plan the fill work in fall while ground access is easier and before the October 4 frost date, so it has all winter to settle before you cap and plant.
If you're filling a large low area, mix your approach, use fill dirt for the bulk of the volume and cap only the top few inches with topsoil where anything needs to grow. This keeps material cost down without sacrificing the growing layer, since screened topsoil costs more per yard than subsoil fill and you don't need it below root depth.
Grading and Filling in Montrose
Montrose sits at 5,807 feet on clay soil that already holds water and settles unevenly, so any fill you add needs to be compacted in the same deliberate way or you'll be chasing dips for years. This is structural material, meant to build elevation and stable grade before anything else goes on top, not something plants root into. With the freeze-thaw swing between the May 7 last frost and the October 4 first frost, loose fill near the surface heaves if it isn't compacted properly. Most of our fill dirt orders here are for foundation backfill, low-spot correction, or building a pad up before topsoil goes down for lawn or garden.
What Fill Dirt Is
Fill dirt is inorganic subsoil sold for volume and grade, not for growing. Small rocks and bits of stick or root are normal in the mix. It compacts predictably, which is exactly what you want under slabs, in trenches, and behind walls.
Fill Dirt vs Topsoil
Fill dirt builds the shape of the ground, topsoil grows things on top of it. Bring the grade up with fill, then cap it with 4 to 6 inches of topsoil anywhere grass or plants are going in.
Compact in Lifts
Place fill in layers of 4 to 6 inches and compact each one before adding the next. Dumping the full depth at once leaves voids that settle later, and settling is the one problem fill is supposed to solve.